PUMP IT UP lift pump for air dehumidifier

The operation of a compressor dehumidifier is similar to that of a refrigerator. In fact, the condenser (the very fine lamella grid) is slightly colder than the ambient air. Thus, the water contained in the air condenses and flows into the tank. Below about ten degrees, these water droplets risk freezing instantly on contact with the condenser, and forming a block of ice at the back of the device. To avoid this, new generation dehumidifiers are equipped with a "defrost" or "anti-freeze" mode that will disconnect the compressor for a while (or longer if it is very cold). The air thus circulates at room temperature and the device does not freeze, but it is almost ineffective.

Continuous drainage means that you don't have to empty the tank all the time. Thus, the condensates (water collected by the dehumidifier) ​​flow away by gravity. This operation is always carried out using a short pipe (maximum 50 cm) with an internal section of approximately 1 cm.

It is not impossible but not recommended because if your pipe gets clogged or does not drain well, the water will rise up in the pipe and flooding is guaranteed. If you risk it, oversize the diameter of the extension pipe and join the 2 pipes well, for a good seal. Make a small hole on the upper part of the pipe, directly after the water outlet, at the back of the appliance.

Below about fifteen degrees, a compressor or Peltier dehumidifier loses much of its efficiency. The reason is simple: to create condensation, the compressor's role is to cool the condenser. If the air is too cold, the drops formed on the condenser will freeze. On older products, you can see blocks of ice forming. Today, there are "Defrost" modes that disconnect the compressor, but the device no longer dehumidifies. It is therefore advisable to opt for a desiccant or low-temperature dehumidifier that works with a large silica wheel. Its efficiency will be almost constant at 0°C or à 20°C.

First, we recommend removing the tank to make installation easier. Then, connect the hose to the unit through the opening on the back or side of the dehumidifier. Replace the tank and place the other end of the drain hose directly into a water drain.

It is compatible with 90% of the products on the market. Its very compact size makes installation easy.

No, the pump is only intended for lifting condensate from dehumidifiers or air conditioners.

You've noticed a brownish liquid flowing from the hose or present in the tank of your dehumidifier? This phenomenon can be surprising, as the water extracted from the air is supposed to be clear. Rest assured: no internal part of your appliance produces this type of liquid. It is most likely pollution present in the ambient air, especially if the appliance is used in a garage or a poorly ventilated space.

Hypothesis No. 1: Presence of Fungal Spores or Mold

In humid environments like garages, microscopic spores (mold, fungi, etc.) can float in the air. Once captured by the airflow of the dehumidifier, they are carried with the condensed water and can color the liquid brown. You might also perceive a musty or damp earth odor when approaching the reservoir.

Hypothesis No. 2: Air Pollution by Organic Residues or Greasy Dust

A garage is often an environment exposed to oils, fuels, solvents, brake dust, etc. These particles, suspended in the air, can be sucked in and mix with the condensed water, giving it a dark brown tint. This phenomenon is common in rooms where volatile organic or chemical substances circulate.

What to do if this happens?

Here are some recommendations to clean your appliance and identify the exact origin of the problem:

1. Clean the drain hose with hot water and a little white vinegar. Soaking in a mild disinfectant solution can also be helpful.
2. Rinse the collection tank and the drain outlet thoroughly.
3. Spray a mixture of warm water and white vinegar (20%) directly onto the fins at the back of the appliance to eliminate any biological traces.
4. Let the dehumidifier run for 24 to 48 hours under the same conditions.
5. If the brown liquid reappears:

• It is then highly likely that the ambient air is the cause of this discoloration. You can:
• Install a pre-filter on the air intake (a fine foam or a coffee filter can work temporarily),
• Test the appliance in another room to see if the phenomenon disappears elsewhere.

For a successful installation, the water level sensor must be placed high enough, above the suction point of the pump. It should be securely fixed, upright, and not in contact with the sides of the tank, so it can accurately detect rising water. This correct positioning ensures the pump activates at the right moment and drains water efficiently without running dry.

On the other hand, a poorly positioned sensor — too low, tilted, or stuck against a wall or cable — may cause detection errors. The pump might turn on too early, with no water, or fail to activate at all. This can lead to system damage or overflow. The visuals below clearly show what to do… and what to avoid.

Correct sensor placement is key to preventing your pump from running dry or continuously. When the sensor is properly installed — at the right height, upright, and unobstructed — it triggers the pump only when needed. This reduces noise and protects your system from premature wear.

However, if the sensor is poorly positioned (too low, tilted, pressed against a wall, or loosely fixed), the pump may run non-stop or make excessive noise. It might be trying to pump without water or may fail to shut off. The visuals below clearly show the most common installation mistakes to avoid.